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Texas Cooks The Food and Cooking of Texas

Nouveau Texas Cuisine...

Tex-Mex Cooking...

Chili Con Carne...

Texas Barbecue

 

by Diana Serbe
with Terry Thompson-Anderson

Introduction

If you ask a Texan what he's having for dinner, you expect to hear that barbecue, chili, or Tex-Mex is on the menu. You might be surprised if the answer is "Grilled Medallions of Venison Backstrap with Ancho Chili and Honey Sauce."   In that answer lies the history of Texan cooking, an ongoing history that incorporates its early influences while it leaps into sophistication both in food and with the emerging Texas wines, many now winning awards. Cowboys are still with us, at home on the range, but their palates have changed.

To guide us into this shifting frontier, we've called on Terry Thompson-Anderson. Terry is a culinary professional, a teacher and the author of three cookbooks, among them Texas on the Plate.  In those pages we found fabulous recipes that speak of tradition and history, but reflect the innovation and sophistication that represents nouveau Texas cooking. 

 

Nouveau Texas Cooking

What is nouveau Texas Cooking?  Some say that it is cowboy cooking turned gourmet, such as hearty steaks combined with unusual sauces.  Unusual?  The history of Texas, living under six flags, would mean an eclectic blend of influences. This is Terry's answer, one that should establish a definition and clear away any confusion:

" A cuisine evolves with the arrival of new ethnic influences, new foods introduced to the area, even new appliances or newly discovered cooking methods (such as blackening, for example, which actually became a new method of cooking food, courtesy of Paul Prudhomme). So, of course Texas food is not the same as it was 100 years ago or even 25 years ago. It's just the way we eat in Texas today.

That has been highly influenced by the availability of more varieties of chiles to the general public and to restaurants, by the great Asian influence in Texas.  There is a large Asian population in Dallas and Houston as well as along the Texas coast wherever there is a harbor. (They are fishermen.) But it's primarily based on the building blocks of the past - our love affair with beef, the Mexican and German influences - Chicken-Fried steak evolved form Schnitzel- from chuckwagon cooking over fir and the traditions of Chile.

We've built on these basics, borrowed from later influences and added new ingredients as they became known. I like to call the way we eat in Texas today "upscale downhome". It's got some gloss and a truffle here and there, but its foundation is in those basics from the pioneer, and yes, the cowboys. Those rugged and very hard-working pioneers established the tradition of those piled-high plates. BIG has always been synonymous with Texas food."

 

Influences on Texas Cooking

In the beginning of Texas' history were the Native Americans.  Among them were many peaceable peoples,  and the Spanish called them Tejas or friends. No flags waved over the plains when the Native Americans occupied the land, but as European explorers discovered the possibilities of the wide open spaces and scrambled for possession, a total of six flags flew over Texas. 

 

The ferment of settling a new country produced fluctuating borders. The Spanish arrived first and dominated from 1519 to 1685. In 1685 the French explorer La Salle claimed a colony on the coast for France.  In 1691 the Spanish returned but their flag was replaced by a Mexican one in 1821. In 1836 Texas declared itself the Republic of Texas and flew its Lone Star flag.  The Stars and Stripes replaced that in 1845, but when the the Civil War broke out, the US flag was also replaced, this time by the Confederate flag.

Wagon trains rumbled through the state. Violence was inevitable as ethnic groups clashed with each other. These shifting borders were the home to Spanish-speaking Catholic immigrants from the south, to English-speaking Protestant settlers pouring in from the eastern United States, to Native Americans fleeing from the white man in other states of the union. Each brought specific rituals and specific ways of cooking, all of which would adapt to this new, difficult frontier.

you are here - introduction and nouveau texas cooking

tex-mex cooking: in search of a definiton

chili con carne: in search of authenticity

texas barbecue, the staple of Texas life

please also read: chili, part one (recipes) ...chili, part two (recipes) ...
mesquite  ... all about BBQ   grill & BBQ Recipes    texas chili cookoff

 
back to texas main page
 
 
 
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