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Irish Cooking on St. Patrick's Day

 

by Diana Serbe

"The health of the salmon to you - a long life, a full heart and a wet mouth." Irish Toast

St. Patrick's Day is a holiday unique to itself. There is no single personage, such as jolly old Saint Nick, to celebrate. The good Saint Patrick is overlooked in favor of the celebration of an entire nation of people and their descendants. Instead of hiring someone to dress up like Santa, we outfit ourselves in green, and celebrate whatever claim to Irish blood we have. Green derbies with shamrocks, worn by people who have no Irish roots, replace artificial beards and red stocking caps. It is also a holiday that has specified only corned beef and cabbage for its celebratory meal. As much as we love this classic, we think there may be other dishes to taste.

 

Irish cooking reflects the temperament of the people. The Irish are a lyric group, so poetic by nature that they have a saying: 'Never harm a poet, never love a poet, and never be a poet." The Irish have given us the finest poets and writers, and their instinct toward the music inherent in language spices their food.

With meager resources for the kitchen, Irish cooking is based on simple, but hearty dishes. Irish cooking is poetic cooking, however, and a simple dish of potatoes and cabbage is lifted from the ordinary by calling it 'bubble and squeak' after the music heard in the pan. When fair Molly Malone sells her cockles and mussels, she doesn't shout that the mussels are fresh, she sings out that they are 'alive, alive-o.' There are even rhymes based on Irish food, such as the potato pancake, called Boxty: "Boxty on the griddle, Boxty in the pan, If you don't eat your boxty, You'll never get your man."

In Irish mythology we find legends that inform us of the native foods. There is the legend of the Nine Sacred Hazels. Near the river Shannon was a copse where the nuts of knowledge grew. Some say this was the source of the Shannon. There is also the legend of Fionn Mac Cumhail, leader of the Fianna and one of the most honored characters in Irish legend. It was he who first tasted the Salmon of Knowledge, giving him all wisdom.

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Ireland and the Potato

As for the potato, it must be remembered that the potato was first cultivated in the Andes and was a gift from the New World to the old. The Irish were among the first to cultivate it. Being a plentiful source of food for the poor, the Irish population grew after the potato was cultivated.

Then came the Potato Famine, The Great Hunger. It wasn't the potato's fault. The hardworking spud did the best it could, proudly filling plates all over Ireland, fighting one blight after another over the years. But in 1845, it tired of the struggle, and the proud potato succumbed. The crops were destroyed, the human population was decimated by starvation and emigration, and the Emerald Isle lost its gleam. Much of that gleam found its way across the Atlantic to America.

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How to Celebrate St. Patrick's Day

Start St. Patrick's day over a hearty Irish breakfast, (click for Irish breakfast) then plan for tea with scones and a fine word or two from a poem by Yeats or the lyric prose of Joyce, and finish the day with a meal of homemade bread, a stew, and, of course, a potato dish. Top off the meal with a warming Irish whiskey.

We offer you some recipes to make a meal, a traditional Irish rhyme to sing when the last pint of ale has been drained. This rhyme is dedicated to the comfort food of all comfort foods, the potato, made into a dish called colcannon. Finally are the words of the poet, reminding us to sing of "Irishry," and the words of words sending us to enjoy life, these from a master of prose.

And remember one thing - if you speak with a brogue, whatever you say will be a poem. Listen to a song of Ireland, this from Edna O'Brien in her book, Mother Ireland: "It is true that a country encapsulates our childhood and those lanes, byres, fields, flowers, insects, suns, moons and stars are forever re-occurring and tantalizing me with a possibility of a golden key which would lead beyond birth to the roots of one's lineage. Irish? In truth I would not want to be anything else."

Happy St. Patrick's Day.

And what about leprechauns, faeries and the banshee? click here for definitive proof of these Irish imps

"Did you ever go a-courting as the evening sun went down,
and the moon began a-peeping from behind the Hill o'Down?
As you wandered down the boreen where the leprechaun was seen,
and you whispered loving phrases to your little fair colleen
Yes you did, so you did, so did she and so did I.
And the more I think about it sure the nearer I'm to cry.
Oh, wasn't it the happy days when troubles we had not,
and our mothers made Colcannon in the little skillet pot."


Irish recipes

 

 

 

And a few recipes adapted from Irish recipes:

 

 

 

Dream of Ireland with us - Search for Roots, Travel, Explore, above all Laugh:

  • gold and silver for celebration - an immigrant's story
  • the burren
  • leprechauns, faeries, and the banshee
  • an irish literary luncheon from the WB Yeats Society of NY
  •  

     
     
    And a little advice to the lyrical Irish from one of Ireland's Nobel prize-winning poets:
     


    "Irish poets learn your trade
    Sing whatever is well made.
    Scorn the sort now growing up
    All out of shape from toe to top,
    Their unremembering hearts and heads
    Base-born products of base beds.
    Sing the peasantry, and then
    Hard-riding country gentlemen,
    The holiness of monks, and after"
    Porter-drinkers' randy laughter;
    Sing the lords and ladies gay
    That were beaten into the clay
    Through seven heroic centuries;
    Cast your mind on other days
    That we in coming days may be
    Still the indominitable Irishry.

    W.B. Yeats, Under Ben Bulben

     

    "and yes I said yes I will Yes"

    James Joyce, Ulysses

     


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