Method

If the heads are still on, cut off and discard.  If you like, trim the feet off the quail and then truss them.  Preheat oven according to your serving time, 500°F if you want to serve the quail within 5 to 10 minutes of putting them in the oven, or 250°F if you want to serve them after about 25 minutes.  Choose an ovenproof saute pan just large enough to hold the quail in a single layer.

Pat the quail dry with paper towels and season them liberally with salt and pepper.  Pour the oil into the pan and heat over high heat.  When the surface of the oil begins to ripple, add half of the quail and then move the pan back and forth on the burner as they brown.  After 2 minutes or so, add the rest of the quail and saute, turning the quail and moving the pan back and forth, for about 10 minutes, or until the quail are evenly browned.  Slide the pan into the oven and roast for about 10 minutes more.  Transfer the quail to a platter and slide the platter into the oven with the door open, to stay warm while you make the jus.  Pour the fat out of the pan and set the pan aside.  The quail are ready to serve or carve if the breasts feel firm when you squeeze them between your fingers.

If you are carving the quail, use a cutting board with a moat to catch any juices that run out.  Then use the juices to deglaze the saute pan, scraping up any caramelized juices, and serve a tablespoon of jus over each quail.  If you don' t have enough jus to deglaze the pan, just deglaze it with a little broth.  Similarly, if you collect only a small amount of jus after deglazing the pan, you can extend it with a little broth.

Reprinted with permission from ©Cooking by James Peterson, published by Ten Speed Press. click for book review

 

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