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Antoinette DeRobertis

 

 

cooking Sicilian, her mother's way

I cook everything my mother's way. She cooks her mother's way. And we both learned from our mothers-in-law. Our recipes are family recipes and they carry history with them.

The smell of food surrounded us when we were growing up. In the afternoon I'd be in my family's bakery. All the cooking is done on the premises, so I was surrounded by baking smells. We lived over the store, so I'd go upstairs at the end of the day to the smell of dinner cooking.

The table was always loaded with food, stuffed squid in tomato sauce, my favorite cauliflower with bucatini and on the side baked roasted peppers, and stuffed artichokes. But my mother looked like she hadn't done anything. She had a great deal of pride and dignity and always looked like she had just put on new clothes.

In the Italian tradition, we always serve fish on Christmas Eve. I love fish, so it was one of my favorite meals. Mom would make lobster in red sauce to serve with linguine. Oh, was that good! She'd serve that with cuttlefish. Cuttlefish is like squid, but it's bigger and plumper, so it's tastier than squid and a little more tender. And cardoon. I insist on cooking cardoon, because I'm afraid the recipes will get lost.

ABOUT ANNIE: You can meet Annie if you stop by De Robertis. In addition to inheriting her mother's recipes, she also inherited her dignity.

DeRobertis family in store

DE ROBERTIS: The store remains as it was when it first opened in 1904,and has been used in movies of Woody Allen, Spike Lee and others.176 First Ave. (between 10th & 11th streets) New York, NY 10009   212-674-7137 1-800-EST-1904   www.derobertiscaffe.com

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 Southern Italian recipes
by daughter, Annie