In India - Traditions Revived


	©

Traditions Revived:

Maghas Laddus and a tradition upheld…

by Rushina Munshaw-Ghildiyal

“Nanis” (maternal grandmothers) are an institution in India. In part I think this has to do with the fact that we live with our “Dadi” (paternal grandmothers) whereas we go on short visits to our Nani. Those visits are filled with indulgence and love and no discipline (unless we did something really bad!). It was no different for me where my Nani was concerned.

We loved going to Nani’s house as children. Added to the visits were the little treats that came for us ever so often. Each grandchild’s favorites were remembered and came to us in rotation, not that that stopped the rest of us from dipping into the others’ bounty! I still get treats from my Nani. With uncanny knack she knows just what I am craving for and soon it arrives. It was brought home to me exactly how much this tradition is a part of the foundation my life recently when my mother sent my son a package.

I stood by and watched as my son opened it. There was a catch in my throat and tears in my eyes. I knew what was in there. The contents were quite immaterial it was the symbolism behind it that had me getting teary eyed. His little hands tore of the paper and before the shreds had settled he had the box open. His little eyes had an avaricious gleam to them as he spied the contents. Maghas na ladwa! (Maghas Laddus).

To much could not be good for him… there was too much sugar… I held my tongue as he devoured three laddus in succession. Fourth one down and maternal instinct won. I cajoled the box away from him. I could feel the mutinous stare on me as I reached up put it onto the highest shelf of the kitchen cupboard, safely out of his reach.

That night after he was safely tucked into bed I snuck back into the kitchen and brought the box down. I put it on the Kitchen counter and stared at it. The tinny notes of a doorbell echoed in my memories, somewhere… I heard my mother’s voice calling to me… worry… mammas voice sounded funny... Like she was crying…. Small hands - my hands - reaching up for a red cardboard box tied up with string…. An open box of laddus….

Feeling like a thief I uncovered the box. Aromas wafted up to mingle with those from my memories, assaulting my senses. My mouth watered at the remembered sweet warmth of the laddus melting on my tongue…

the box was filled with layer upon layer of rich ochre colored orbs, alternated with milky butter paper. My hand hovered over the box, unable to decide should I? I picked up a laddu, maybe just one … but then mentally shaking my head I then put it down.

I realized at that moment, that I did not really want to eat any of the contents of that box. They were for my son. A lot of care had gone into the roasting of the besan. Love had been stirred in with the sugar and indulgence bound the whole as only homemade ghee, slowly - simmered on the gas could. My mother like her mother before her had stood at her kitchen counter, early that morning and rolled those laddus while the Maghas mixture was still hot from the gas. As the laddus had cooled and firmed some were still studded with her fingerprints. My box was there stored away in my memories... this one was for my son…

What I did do the next morning was call my Nani for her recipe for the Maghas Laddus … I would have to uphold a tradition one day….

Maghas or besan Laddus

In the Gujarat Community of India these confections, or versions of them are symbolic of a grandmother’s love. Maghas (literally meaning brain) is a combination of coarsely ground flours including chickpea bound with ghee and sweetened with Sugar or jaggery. Despite being very rich they are considered very good for the brain… Family lore says that 2 or 3 of these walnut sized treats washed down with a glass of milk are enough to fill the stomach. Young mothers are advised to feed picky children a couple of these a day. (I confess in the summer months when my son’s appetite wanes, I am reassured if he has a couple of these.) The process of making them is long and hot, they are made for someone who is very treasured. The Maghaz flour is roasted over high a flame until aromatic and golden. A copious amount of Ghee (clarified butter) and sugar are then added and it is further cooked till the mixture leaves the sides of the pan. While it is cooling it is quickly rolled into balls or laddus.

Read other articles by Rushina:

back to food is art contributors contact us top of page membership agreement home about us