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Birds in a Jam:

The Avian Hindrance to Making Jams and Sauces

by Margaret E. Walker

It's that time of year again, and there seems to be a moral question here about how much fruit I should allow the birds to eat. I struggle with this question on a daily basis at this time of year. It is impossible to sit peaceably over my breakfast cup of tea, or my mid-morning cappuccino when I can hear the regular 'cheep, cheep, cheep' from high up in the plum tree or even worse, the apricot tree. There is an imperative which drives me to hasten to the tree and give those noisy birds some pretty stern advice. "Keep away from my fruit you little blighters."

In our past life at Lacewood, (our former farming property) with its 300 tree orchard it was impossible to keep the birds from eating what the previous owner called their allotted portion. He declared that there was one quarter for the birds and three quarters for us, and that's how it was, no argument. However, we now only have one plum tree and one apricot tree, having moved from the farm into the town, and each piece of fruit is jealously guarded. If I catch a bird casting its little beady eye over my fruit I am out there under the branches clapping loudly. Not in applause you understand, but to let the little beggars know that only when I am finished picking can they come for their share.

When I sold Lacewood (the farm and cottage manufacturing industry that developed from it) I hadn't anticipated making any more jam, having cut, stoned, stirred, and bottled more fruit than you could poke a stick at, so it was a surprise to me when I actually had the energy to make three batches of plum jam this year. During my manufacturing years I learned that one way to have added pectin in the jam and therefore a better set, was to add some chopped citrus, and having a grapefruit tree is a boon. The first fruit to hit the pot was plum, blueberry with a hint of grapefruit. Not content with that, and because the plums were so plentiful, plump and beautiful I made Strawberry & Plum and Plum & Raspberry. They taste delicious, glow like rubies in glass jars and are marvellous on toast.

I just wish I could train my Abyssinian cat to climb the fruit trees to ward of those feathered invaders until I have picked my supplies, but he seems content to lie on the driveway in the shade, blinking an eye upwards only when the offending cheeping becomes too loud.

The golden jars of marmalade, made just three months ago have had to move over on the pantry shelves to make room for the latest ruby bottles, and my heart rejoices that there are jars of jam to give away to friends and family alike. It is a wonderful thing to present a jar of home-made jam as a gift when calling at the home of a friend or loved one, and seems to me that there is more than fruit and sugar inside the glass jar. There is also love!

Plum sauce and Chili Plum Sauce

Today we have cut the last of the ripened plums. The birds have also had their share and I feel justified in turning the remainder of the crop into Plum Sauce with just a hint of citrus for added bite. We sat at the kitchen table this morning with tiny rivulets of red juice running down to our elbows as we worked. I then finely sliced and diced two grapefruit and added them to the pot with ground ginger and a hint of ground cloves. This will all boil down before I add the remaining spices, vinegar and sugar. Last year's crop of tiny birds-eye chillies was made into a chili paste so I shall add some of this to part of the batch to make a small quantity of Hot Chili Plum Sauce which my sons love. It goes so well with Asian foods and pork dishes.

Apricots

With the last of the plums down from the tree I now turn my attention to the apricot tree whose branches intertwine with the plum. It is loaded with fruit and, because I wouldn't let my husband, Brian, thin the fruit when it = was quite small, the tree has a heavy burden, as he keeps reminding me.

This tree is a miracle. Parts of the tree have died and been cut back, but the living part of the tree is thriving. I have great difficulty in reaching the fruit even with the aid of a step ladder. I stand below and look skywards to the fruit which I know I must dedicate to the native bird population because it is out of range. The fruit however is firm and flavoursome with the slightly acidic flavour that I love. The sugar doesn't develop in the apricots until the flesh becomes quite soft and orange in colour. My preference however is to eat the fruit straight from the tree. I know it's delicious in pies, stewed, on top of cakes, in tarts and slices, but for my money you can't beat standing underneath the branches, devouring the just-picked fruit while juice trickles down your chin.

Night and morning we climb the ladder as near the top of the tree as we dare to reach the ripening fruit . Of course this gives us a physical workout as well as a different perspective on our neighborhood, in particular Bailey and Zo, our neighbour's dogs, who are so excited to see our heads pop above the tall dividing fence, and bark with joy when the odd apricot bounces at their feet.

Meanwhile the kitchen is redolent of sugar and spice and all things nice. The aroma of pickled apricots rises into the range hood, and spicy apricot sauce is stirred slowly, blended smooth and then bottled into hot sterilised bottles. What a golden bounty. I feel rich beyond my dreams. The pickled apricots are something I decided to make on the spur of the moment and have proved a success to eat with cold turkey or ham.

This was followed by a batch of Apricot sauce, Apricot and Chilli sauce, Apricot and Citrus jam and Gingered Apricot jam. Meanwhile I have processed the last two boxes of apricots, the last of the crop. They are small; some are a little spotty and not good for eating so I have decided to make another batch of Apricot Sauce with Ginger. When I saw small vacuum packs of red pickled shredded ginger on my supermarket shelves last week my heart took a leap, and you couldn't stop my rush through the checkout to go home and experiment. The cut apricots, lemons and grapefruit were placed into the pan with a quantity of vinegar and cooked until they were soft and squashy. With my hand-held blender I turned the fruit into a pulp, much easier than having to pass the fruit through a sieve I can tell you. I then added the remainder of the spiced vinegar and the sugar, and lastly two packets of the shredded ginger. The finished product is a beautiful colour with little red pieces of ginger showing through the glass. I love the freedom to try all kinds of different things. As long as one sticks to the basic recipe and keeps the correct proportions of fruit to acid (vinegar) and sugar there is no end to the combinations that can be achieved. Go on, try it for yourself, you can have basic sauce or a spiced up version with chilli and hot pepper on your shelf. It all depends on your taste, so go for it.

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