stunning scenery, its barren and
dusty deserts, the brilliant blue skies, snow clad mountains, lush green
valleys, and the colourful and bustling bazaars; but most of all I loved
it for the wonderful, hospitable people.
During my first year I travelled
around the country as much as possible and met many Afghans including
my future husband, and after a short engagement we were married in England
in 1972. When we returned to live in Afghanistan, I was offered a locally-engaged
post at the British Embassy. I had the best of both worlds - I kept
my links with Britain, while at the same time I became an Afghan. I
quickly learned the language of Dari, and during the next eight years
travelled around most parts of the country. I became very interested
in the culture and traditions of the people and in their food and customs.We entertained a lot at home and
even for our non-Afghan friends we nearly always cooked Afghan food.
I have lots of happy and fond memories of hours spent in the kitchen
with my maid, and also my friend, Gulbadan, and my mother-in-law, preparing
ashak, boulanee, pilau, and many other specialities and delicacies.
I extended my knowledge of Afghan food and traditions in the best way
possible, by being the guest of many families from different tribes
and backgrounds and tasting all kinds of regional specialities on my
travels.I lived in Afghanistan until March
1980, when due to the Soviet invasion and occupation, the escalating
fighting and civil disturbances, we decided reluctantly that it was
time to leave. However, although we left most of our material belongings
behind and some of our family and dear friends, I am fortunate still
to have my memories, together with a tremendous love for Afghans and
Afghanistan.
One of my main reasons for writing Afghan
Food and Cookery was to record Afghan culinary traditions and recipes,
which I felt might be lost due to the war in Afghanistan. I also wanted
to contribute, in a small way, to the Afghan cause and to help prevent
Afghanistan being forgotten. Many men, women and children were without
food, medicines or shelter and the war resulted in a massive exodus
of refugees to countries all over the world and a consequent dispersal
and erosion of their culture. Sadly, this tragic situation continued for
many years. In a bitter civil war, Afghan fought Afghan; many men, women
and children were killed; thousands of children became orphans; millions
faced starvation; women's rights under the Taliban became non-existent;
a whole generation knew only deprivation and war. However, what happened in New York on September
11, 2001, quickly brought about the start of a new and more hopeful
era for Afghanistan. The Taliban have been driven away along with their
allies from Al-Qaeda and there is wide support for the transitional
government who now face the enormous task of cementing peace in place
and rebuilding the country. I have had an opportunity myself to assess
on the spot the magnitude of this task.
I have just returned from a
visit to Afghanistan, my first in twenty-two years. My husband, an engineer,
had already returned there some months previously to help with planning
reconstruction, with plans and projects piled high on his desk. It was
an emotional visit, tinged with sadness when I saw the amount of devastation
and poverty. However, despite all the difficulties and troubles, I also
felt optimistic for the future. Kabul seemed to be thriving: a bustling,
busy city. People are returning and are busy rebuilding or renovating
their homes, shops and offices. The noise of building work competes
with the din of chaotic traffic. Shops and bazaars thrive. Although
western goods are only available at prices far too high for 95% of the
population, local produce abounds, especially the colourful vegetables
and fruits which I recalled so well from living there.
In the bazaars,
young men with their barrows sing out their wares - red pomegranates
spilling out their glistening seeds, rosy apples, small sweet yellow
bananas, melons, water melons (one or two also split to reveal their
red juicy insides), small sweet white grapes, tomatoes, potatoes, onions,
carrots and lots of green gandana (the leek-like vegetable so loved
by Afghans). The street vendors (tabang walas) are as popular as ever.
One can buy corn on the cob roasted over charcoal; eat fried pastries
filled with gandana called boulanee; or feast on boiled sliced potatoes
sprinkled with minty vinegar. You can take your choice from a row of
jars containing brightly coloured chutneys, including the tangy green
coriander chutney which is one of my favourites.
The chaikhanas (tea houses) are doing good
trade. It is in them that men gather to gossip or discuss politics over
tea or a quick snack. The restaurant scene is changing. There have never
been many restaurants, of the western kind, but new ones are appearing
and menus are becoming more varied and now include takeaway items. During
my visit I was able to sample pizza, pasta, Chinese dishes and Indian
food. There are a number of plans to restore and renovate some of the
larger hotels of Kabul.
All in all, there are many signs of the Afghan
people getting back to a normal life and their traditional ways. However,
I think it is just as important now as it was in the mid 1980s to continue
to record the foods, traditions, and recipes of the Afghan people. Certainly,
Afghans think so. I have been greatly heartened by the response my book
has had from many of them now living in different corners of the world.
They have sent me much constructive, helpful advice and information
about Afghan food and cookery in all the variety which the presence
of so many ethnic groups in one country has brought about. I was particularly
delighted when many told me that they had bought my book to give to
their children, many of whom left Afghanistan at a very early age and
do not remember much about the traditions and customs.
Written by Helen Saberi
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