From the Kushans, to the
Ghaznavid sultans, to the Durrani rulers such spheres of influence have
contributed much to the rich patterns of civilisation.Because of its special position
in Central Asia, Afghanistan was also a crossroads on the ancient Silk
Routes connecting Europe with the Far East. Traders and merchants from
many countries travelled there, including the famous Venetian traveller
Marco Polo. This traffic brought many imported items such as Chinese
tea and Indian spices, all of which have had a big effect on Afghan
cuisine.The numerous different ethnic groups
living in Afghanistan - the Tajiks, Turkomans, Uzbeks, Baluchis, Pashtuns
and Hazaras are just some of them - have also left their mark on Afghan
traditions and food.
In short, Afghanistan has been a
melting pot for a large number of cultures and traditions over the centuries,
and these different influences can be detected in the variety of Afghan
food and the regional specialities. Readers of Afghan Food and Cookery
(click for review) will
find many similarities with Greek, Turkish, Middle Eastern, Persian,
Central Asian, Indian and even Far Eastern foods and dishes.
Climate of Afghanistan
Afghanistan is a land of contrasts
- vast areas of scorching parched deserts, large areas of high, cold
and inaccessible mountains and extensive green plains and valleys, some
of which are sub-tropical. Generally the summers are dry and very hot
and the winters very cold with heavy snowfalls especially in the mountains.
It is this snow which provides the much needed water for irrigation
in the late spring and summer. The plains and valleys are very fertile
so long as there is water, and a wide variety of crops can be cultivated;
it is these crops which determine the everyday diet of Afghans.
Cereals such as wheat, corn, barley
and even rice are the chief crops. Rice is grown on the terraces of
the Hindu Kush in the north and in the Jalalabad area. Cotton is grown
in the north and south west of the country, and cotton factories in
Kunduz and Lashkargah produce edible cottonseed oil. Sugar beet is grown
mainly in the Pule Khumri/Kunduz area and is processed in the factory
at Pule Khumri. Sugar cane is cultivated in the Jalalabad/Nangarhar
area.
Because the range of climatic conditions
in Afghanistan is so wide, a great variety of vegetables and fruits
grow in abundance. Afghanistan is particularly famous for its grapes,
from which green and red raisins are produced, and for its melons.
Social Customs and Traditions in Afghanistan
Afghanistan is a poor country but
it is rich in traditions and social customs. Unfortunately it is not
possible to describe the Afghan way of life in great detail in so short
a space, but I have endeavoured to pick out the most interesting and
important aspects relating to food and cookery.
Hospitality is very important in
the Afghan code of honour. The best possible food is prepared for guests
even if other members of the family have to go without. A guest is always
given a seat or the place of honour at the head of the room. Tea is
served first to the guest to quench his thirst. While he is drinking
and chatting with his host, all the women and girls of the household
are involved in the preparation of food.
The traditional mode of eating in
Afghanistan is on the floor. Everyone sits around on large colourful
cushions, called toshak. These cushions are normally placed on the beautiful
carpets, for which Afghanistan is famous. A large cloth or thin mat
called a disterkhan is spread over the floor or carpet before the dishes
of food are brought. In summer, food is often served outside in the
cooler night air, or under a shady tree during the day. In the depth
of winter food is eaten around the sandali, the traditional form of
Afghan heating. A sandali consists of a low table covered with a large
duvet called a liaf which is also big enough to cover the legs of the
occupants, sitting on their cushions or mattresses and supported by
large pillows called balesht or poshty. Under the table is a charcoal
brazier called a manqal. The charcoal has to be thoroughly burned previously
and covered with ashes.
Food is usually shared communally;
three or four people will share one large platter of rice and individual
side dishes of stew qorma, or vegetables. Home made chutneys, pickles,
as well as fresh nan usually accompany the food.
The traditional way of eating is
with the right hand, and with no cutlery. Spoons may be used for puddings
and teaspoons for tea. Because hands are used in eating there is a handwashing
ceremony before meals and for this a special bowl and jug called a haftawa-wa-lagan
is used. A young boy or girl member of the family brings this to the
guest, and pours the water over his hands for him, the bowl being used
to catch the water.
Special Afghan Occasions
and Religious Festivals
Afghanistan is a Muslim country
and religion plays a very important part in the way of life. Afghans
observe all religious days and festivals, which are based on the lunar
calendar. The two most important festivals are Eid-ul-Fitr (also called
Eid-e-Ramazan) and Eid-e-Qorban (sometimes called Eid-ul-Adha).
Eid-ul-Fitr, which goes on for three
days, marks the end of Ramazan, the month of fasting, and is celebrated
rather like our Christmas. Children receive new clothing and families
visit relatives and friends. Presents are not exchanged but in recent
years the practice of sending Eid cards has increased consider ably.
Eid-e-Qorban is the major festival
marking the end of the Haj, the pilgrimage to Mecca, and lasts for four
days. Again, children receive new clothing and friends and relatives
are visited. At each Eid, tea, nuts, sweets and sugared almonds called
noql are served to visitors and guests. Often special sweets and pastries
are also prepared; halwa-e-swanak, sheer payra, goash-e-feel and others.
Many Afghans sacrifice a lamb or calf at Eid-e-Qorban, which takes its
name from the word qorban, meaning sacrifice. The meat is distributed
among the poor, relatives and neighbours.
Another important day of celebration
is New Year, called Nauroz. The Afghan New Year falls on 21 March, the
spring equinox, our first day of spring. This special day, which celebrates
new life, has its origins long before Islam, in the time of Zoroaster
and the Zoroastrians. Special dishes and foods are made for the New
Year: kulcha Naurozee, a biscuit made with rice flour and sometimes
called kulcha birinji; and miwa Naurozee, a fruit and nut compote, also
called haft miwa or haft seen by some because it contains seven (haft)
fruits and the name of each fruit includes the Persian letter seen.
Shola-e -shireen or shola-e-zard, both sweet rice dishes, are also made
on this day for Nazer, a kind of thanksgiving (see p 00). Another traditional
food at this time is sabzi chalau with chicken. The recipes for these
dishes can be found in the relevant chapters.
Samanak is another ancient dish
prepared especially for New Year. About fifteen to twenty days before
the New Year, wheat is planted in flower pots and from this wheat a
sweet pudding is made. The preparation for this dish is elaborate.
At New Year when everything is new
and fresh and the bitter winter is finally over, Afghans like to go
on picnics and many people visit holy shrines, ziarat.
Buzkashi is also played at New Year.
It is the country's national sport and it resembles polo. Buzkashi literally
means 'goat-grabbing'. The headless body of a goat, or sometimes a calf,
is used in place of a ball. The game originated on the plains of Kunduz
and Mazar-i-Sharif during the time of the Mongol invasions of Afghanistan,
when it is said that the Mongol horse men used (decapitated) prisoners
of war instead of goats.
Children go out to fly their kites.
These are made with colour ful tissue paper on a light wooden frame,
and the thread, specially made with ground glass, is extremely sharp.
The kites fight each other in the air, trying to cut the thread of other
kites.
Afghans love an excuse for a party.
Births, circumcisions, engagements and weddings are celebrated in grand
style, although many of the associated customs are dying out.
The birth of a child, especially
the first male child is a big occasion, when many guests will be expected.
Numerous dishes and specialities are prepared; aush, ashak, boulanee,
kebabs, pilau and many desserts. Celebrations continue for ten days.
On the third day or sometimes the sixth day, called Shab-e-shash, the
local priest, mullah, comes to bless the child and the naming ceremony
takes place. Relatives sit round a room and choose a name, which is
then called into the baby's ear. On the tenth day (dah) after the birth,
the mother gets up for the first time (until this time her women relatives
have been looking after her and the baby) and goes to the public baths
(hamam). This day is therefore called Hamam-e-dah. Humarch, a flour-based
soup, which is considered a 'hot' or strengthening food is served, especially
to the new mother. Other traditional dishes often made specially for
this occasion because of their reputed strengthening and nourishing
properties are leetee, kachee, aush and shola-e-olba, the sweet rice
dish with fenugreek. On the 40th day after the birth, the sweet bread
called roht is baked for close family relatives. Roht is also baked
and rolled on the day the child walks for the first time.
Circumcision is another occasion
which is still celebrated. Relatives and friends gather together when
the male child is circumcised. Traditionally, the local barber is responsible
for performing this task. On such a day kebabs are made from the fresh
meat of a lamb specially sacrificed for the occasion and are served
with a variety of foods.
Engagements and weddings are elaborate
and many of the celebrations vary between the different ethnic groups.
They also vary from city to village. Any engagement or wedding is an
occasion for a large party.
Engagements are called shirnee khoree,
which literally means sweet eating. Traditionally the family of the
groom bring sweets, goash-e-feel, presents, clothes, jewellery and other
gifts for the bride's family. The bride's family in return prepares
and organises the food and the party to celebrate the occasion. Large
numbers of guests, depending on the social standing and financial circumstances
of the bride's family are invited. Special kitchens are often set up
in order to cope with the preparation of vast amounts of food; pilau,
qorma, ashak, boulanee and many varieties of desserts; firni, shola,
jellies, pastries and of course lots of fruit. The tea qymaq chai is
usually served.
Weddings take place in two stages:
nikah, the religious ceremony when the marriage contract is actually
signed, takes place first and is followed by arusi, which is a combination
of wedding party and further ceremony.
At the second stage of the wedding
the guests are first served with food while the bride is preparing herself
in a separate room. A wide assortment of rich dishes similar to those
at an engagement are served. The arusi ceremony usually takes place
quite late in the evening and after the inevitable tea.
The bride and bridegroom are then
brought together for the first time (the bride was not present at the
religious ceremony - her signing of the contract was done by proxy).
The groom sits on a raised platform called takht (throne) and the bride
approaches, heavily veiled with female relatives holding the Qor'an
(Koran) over her head. The bride joins the groom and a mirror is placed
before them. Several ceremonies then take place involving the tasting
of sharbat (sherbet) and molida, a flour-based, powdery sweet. Henna
is painted on the couple's hands or fingers. Sugared almonds (noql)
symbolising fruitfulness and prosperity and other sweets, symbolising
happiness, are then showered over the newly-weds, rather like the western
tradition of throwing confetti.
Another less happy occasion when
many friends and relatives get together is for a death. Food is prepared
for the mourning family and guests, many of whom will stay for a number
of days with the bereaved family On the first Friday after a death,
and on the 40th day, relatives and friends gather together to hear the
Qor'an being read, usually by the local priest (mullah), after which
food is served.
Another custom which perhaps should
be mentioned here is the Shab-e-mourdaha, which literally means night
of the dead. These special nights are held on the eve of an Eid and
New Year. The dead of the family are remembered and halwa is made and
distributed to the poor.
Nazer is another important religious
custom. It is practised by all, whether rich or poor, and is similar
to a thanksgiving, but can take place on any day. Nazer is offered for
a number of reasons like the safe return of a relative after a journey
or recovery from a serious illness. Another important reason for nazer
is to mark a visit to a holy shrine and the fulfilment of a prayer made
on this pilgrimage. For these occasions special dishes such as halwa
or shola are cooked and distributed to the poor. The most simple offering
for nazer is to buy a dozen fresh nan and hand pieces out to passers-by
in the street. The more affluent sacrifice a lamb or calf. Nazer is
always accepted graciously as it has such religious significance.
My mother-in-law used to make a
large pot of halwa. Portions of this were placed on a large piece of
fresh nan. A large tray was set up and a servant or member of the family
went out on to the street and offered it to anyone passing by. We also
sent it to our neighbours.
Nazer is also held on other important
religious days such as the birthday of Prophet Mohammad or on the tenth
day of Muharram (the lunar month of mourning) which is the anniversary
of the massacre of Hazrat-e-Hussein, grandson of Mohammad and seventy
two members of his family. There is also Nazer Bibi, Bibi being Fatima
El-Zahra, the daughter of Prophet Mohammad. On this occasion, rice or
wheat halwa is served on round thin bread cooked in oil.
Of course, some traditions and customs
have disappeared, especially in the cities. The towns and cities have
become increasingly westernised, particularly the capital, Kabul. Tables
and chairs are now in common use, as is cutlery, although knives are
still not used much. Buffet meals are often prepared for large parties.
There is no special order for serving
Afghan food and usually at a large party the table is set with all the
main dishes; pilau, qorma, vegetables and salads are placed together
with the desserts and fruits. It is up to the individual to choose whether
to eat each dish separately or to eat all the dishes on one plate. However,
the desserts are eaten last and followed by fruit. After every meal
tea is served. Enormous amounts of food are prepared on special occasions.
Second helpings are a must if you are not to offend your host. Often
the host or hostess will come round and serve you with a large extra
helping, insisting that you eat more of this or that delicacy.
Left-overs from these feasts are
never wasted. There are always willing eaters in the kitchen who have
been involved in the preparation of the food and who wait until the
guests have finished. What they cannot manage can always be eaten the
next day.
Afghans rarely eat in restaurants.
There were a few restaurants in Kabul and in other large towns but these
mostly catered for foreigners and travellers. Chaikhana, teahouses,
on the other hand, are very popular and Afghans go there to meet their
friends, exchange gossip and sit and drink tea. Food can be bought but
it is mainly for travellers. Afghans do like to eat kebabs which are
prepared at kebab stalls and they also buy snacks from street vendors
known as tawaf or tabang wala. A tabang wala carries his food and utensils
balanced on his head on a large, flat, round wooden tray called a tabang.
He sets up a stall wherever or whenever appropriate, sometimes staking
a claim to a particular street corner. He provides an assortment of
food such as jelabi, pakaura, sliced boiled potatoes with vinegar, boiled
chickpeas or kidney beans served with vinegar and boiled eggs.
A popular game played by children
at Eid or Nauroz resembles our Easter custom of coloured eggs. The eggs
are brightly deco rated in different colours and the game consists in
knocking together two boiled eggs with a friend. The owner of the egg
whose shell cracks first is the loser. Sometimes a tabang wala sells
dried fruits and nuts, fruit and nut compotes such as kishmish ab (raisins
in water), and sweets.
Another game which both adults and
children play involves the pulling and breaking of a chicken wishbone.
Very often at a party a pilau with chicken will be specially cooked
as an excuse to play this game. Unlike the game played with a wishbone
in the west, it does not matter who receives the larger piece; the pulling
of the wishbone simply marks the start of a game between two players,
on which bets, usually for another party or money or clothing, will
be placed. At any time after the wishbone has been pulled one of the
players may try to win by handing an object, of any nature, to the other.
The one who receives the object must remember that the game has been
set in motion and must say Mara yod ast (I remember). The game goes
on until one player forgets and becomes the loser. The winner marks
his victory by saying Mara yod ast, tura feramush (I remember, you forget).
With the arrival of snow, the adults
play a game called barfi, which also involves the giving of a party.
A friend or relative sends a note in an envelope containing some of
the first snow. It is usually delivered by a servant or a child. If
you unsuspectingly accept the envelope you must pay the forfeit by giving
a party for the sender and his family. Some Afghans take care to avoid
answering the door during the first snowfall, but many will await the
deliverer, for, if you can catch the person delivering the note, the
tables are turned and it is the sender who must give the party. When
this happens the deliverer has a black mark made with charcoal on his
forehead or his hands are tied behind his back and then he is returned
in disgrace to the sender's house. I was once caught out by one of my
husband's young cousins. I think his family took unfair advantage of
a foreigner who was not well versed in Afghan traditions!
A favourite pastime is a picnic
called maila, especially in spring and summer, although in peacetime
the people of Kabul went for picnics even in winter, sometimes an extended
one lasting the whole weekend, down in the warmer climes of Jalalabad.
In summer, picnickers would go to the cooler mountain regions of Paghman
or the Salang in the Hindu Kush. In spring the picturesque village of
Istalif and the lake at Sarobi were favourite haunts.
In true Afghan style, mountains
of food were taken and prepared on the spot for these picnics. A fire
would be lit and kebabs or fish grilled over charcoal and served with
salads and hot fresh nan, bread. Sometimes the more adventurous would
cook pilau. Afterwards tea was brewed and everyone would relax and enjoy
the fresh air. Some Afghan picnics are quite lively affairs, and there
is music and dancing for the more energetic. People bring their own
musical instruments, or popular Indian dance music on tape.
Some foods and desserts are prepared
only at certain seasons. In spring or early summer, faluda is made.
This is a type of noodle dessert or drink, sometimes mixed with snow
brought down from the mountains in large blocks, which is served with
a variety of accompaniments ranging from a milk custard thickened with
salep to just being sprinkled with rosewater. Locally made ice cream,
sheer yakh belongs to the same season. Kishmish panir is another traditional
food found only in the spring: a white uncured cheese served with red
raisins. Winter is the season for the speciality called haleem, a dish
of wheat mixed with ground meat and served with oil and sugar, usually
bought from the bazaar. Winter is also the time for fish and jelabi.
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