Sayed Ahmad Shah, the host and owner
of Bamiyan Afghani Restaurant, a Supreme Court Justice in his native
Afghanistan, was visiting his brother, Sayed Nader Shah, who was a political
science student at New York's Columbia University when the Russian invasion
of Afghanistan prevented his return.
His eyes water over when he speaks
of his homeland, describing the forty different species of apricots,
the apple orchards whose fruit is so fragrant that a freshly picked
apple will perfume an entire home.
Not being able to find food that
he considered comparable to the cuisine of home, both from the perspectives
of taste and of health, he turned to his first love - cooking. Mr. Shah
became a restaurateur, subsequently training fifteen New York City Chefs
in the skills of Afghani cuisine.
Mr. Shah went out of his way to
make me feel at home and comfortable when I entered Bamiyan using a
motorized scooter. Although many restaurants, like Bamiyan, are wheelchair
accessible, the hosts aren't always as warm and welcoming. Mr. Shah's
kindness led to a discussion of Afghani cuisine, and he recalled memories
of a privileged childhood - his mother was a member of the Afghani royal
family . While Mr. Shah's household was run by servants, he had a love
of cooking even as a young child and 'hung out' with the kitchen staff
engrossed in learning how to prepare the delicacies I've been treated
to at Bamiyan.
When I first ate in Bamiyan, I expected
to eat shish kabob, which I knew was a typical Afghani dish, but I was
surprised by the variety and sumptuous cuisine and delighted in the
friendly and efficient service. While I expected the babaganoush first
course, I thought it would be made with tehina, but Bamiyan's babaganoush
is made with yogurt, and it is superb. It is served with a crusty and
delicious bread topped with fragrant black sesame seeds. My second surprise
appetizer was Bouland Kadu, spicy pumpkin turnovers. I found myself
in culinary heaven and when the main course of shish kabob turned out
to be juicy, flavorful and served on a bed of a delectable and healthy
brown rice pilaf, I was overjoyed. Never have I been disappointed in
the cuisine at Bamiyan.
Editor's Note:
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