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a child's view of Detroit cooking

by william robinson

In the early 40's, Detroit was a study in grays and browns. The darkness was lit with a dimmed lamp as civil defense sirens wailed, and monitors roamed the streets yelling at offenders of "TURN OFF THE LIGHT." Blackouts had a different meaning then. I was born into this strange land, and my earliest thoughts were wondering about where had I landed, and what I was doing there.

Food was of little concern to me, yet I was aware that something powerful was happening in the kitchen. Putting a meal on the table seemed to be a preoccupation with grownups, and as I sat to eat, I couldn't help but wonder what was so hard about. I was blissfully unaware that such things as ration books existed.

Because gas was rationed, our milk was still delivered by horse and wagon. I would rush into the street to see the horse. The highlight of my day was when the horse would look my way and neigh. I would report to whoever happened to be there that the horse said hello to me. The days the horse did not communicate crushed me. My wounds were soothed, though, when someone explained that the horse had a heavy load to pull and might not have felt well. Those were the days before homogenization and the cream was poured off the top of the icy bottle for use in coffee. All my family seemed to love cream in their coffee.

Lard came in a tightly sealed brick with a large red dot in the center. When first brought home, it was hard from refrigeration. But my mother softened it to room temperature, and then the fun began. The red dot needed to be popped and the brick kneaded until the red dye mixed with the white lard, creating yellow butter! Real butter was a luxury few could afford during the depression and early war years. The task of making butter fell to me and I developed many fine techniques to accomplish the task. Among them were kicking and stomping on the lard when no one was looking.

My family was 2nd and 3rd generation American, but still tied to the cooking styles of the old countries, England, Ireland and Germany. Meat and potatoes were the order of the day and every respectable supper, except on Fridays, had to contain them. Vegetables were served in the English style - as tea sandwiches or side salads. Here are two that live in my memory.

Cucumber salad: Slice a cucumber on the diagonal into very thin slices. Blend one tablespoon apple cider vinegar with one teaspoon sugar. Sprinkle on cucumbers and toss well. Serve chilled.

Radish sandwich: Place thinly sliced radishes in several layers on buttered bread, with salt and pepper to taste.

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William Robinson  2001