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The History of Chocolate

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by Diana Serbe

The botanical name of the tree that gives us chocolate is Theobroma cacao, which literally means 'food of the gods.' Cacao is tropical, and chocolate history begins in Latin America, though Africa is a major producer today. The delicate young tree needs protection from the sun, and is planted underneath trees of different species which are called 'madre de cacao' or mother of cacao. When the tree matures it bears oblong pods which contain 40 to 50 of the beans.

Cacao, as we called chocolate in the early days of its history, was introduced to the European palate via those hardy conquistadors who introduced so many foods of the new world to the old. The chroniclers of their history, Bernal Díaz and Bernardino de Sahagún have left us written descriptions of the use of cacao.

Monctezuma greeted Hernando Cortés and his army with chocolate drink, most probably a gesture of friendship since cacao was a drink for nobles, warriors, and traders. According to Bernal Díaz the drink was served to Monctezuma in "vessels of pure gold. In the markets, there were sellers of fine chocolate beverages which were made with honey, flowers, vanilla, and even cayenne pepper. The brewer would pour the drink from a height to make it foam."  This chocolate was made from ground cacao seeds with added seasonings, and was indeed a spicy, frothy, non-sweet form of what we today call simply chocolate..

Recently researchers have made further chocolate discoveries.  The residue of a chemical compound that comes only from the cacao plant which is the source of chocolate has been found in pottery vessels dating from about 1100 BC in Puerto Escondido, Honduras.  Chocolate history is older than we originally anticipated.  With this discovery, chocolate history is pushed back by at least 500 years.

In Foods of the Americas: Native Recipes and Traditions, authors Fernando and Marlene Divina tell us: "Both the Maya and Aztec people prized cacao, using the beans not only for culinary purposes but also for trade and as money. Pre-Conquest chocolate was almost always a drink, which had many forms and flavorings (chile powders wee among he most popular). Pounded maize could be added, but the highest aristocrats almost always took chocolate unadulterated, with a froth created by pouring the liquid from vessel to vessel. Chocolate also was of major ceremonial importance to the Maya and the Aztecs. It was served at lavish banquets, buried with the dead, and used to anoint newborn babies." click to read a review of this excellent book

Cortés sent beans to Spain, saying that he found chocolate to be an energy source. "...a cup of this precious beverage would put a man in condition to make a whole day's march without the need for other food." The conquistadors must have been more sensitive than we imagine, since chocolate has very little caffeine.

The first shipment of chocolate was sent to Seville in 1585. The Catholic Church eyed the pep-giving bean with suspicion, and decreed that it could not be consumed in Lent or on any fast days. After the chocolate loving Cardinal Brancatio declared chocolate to be essential, the Spanish drank their cacao with zeal, and it was their secret for almost 100 years.

You can't keep a good chocolate bean down, however, and a Florentine explorer, Francesco Carletti, wrote from a journey near Lima that he was in a place "...where cacao grows, a widely celebrated fruit of great importance..." Chocolate history moved on and the Florentines became the first producers of chocolate in Italy.

We would probably not have enjoyed the earliest chocolate produced in European history.  Early chocolate drinks were fatty and difficult to digest. As early as 1753 the fat was being removed, but it wasn't until 1828 that it began to be powdered. The idea of mixing it with milk is credited to Sir Hans Sloane, physician to Queen Anne. He sold his secret recipe to a London apothecary who later sold it to the Cadbury brothers, still the name most associated with chocolate to the English.

Today chocolate history has a new chapter - the United States is the leading consumer of cacao. Per capita consumption of chocolate in the United States and western Europe has doubled since 1945. The Swiss and the British eat the most chocolate. The Norwegians and Austrians drink the most chocolate.

Should any chocolate lovers need justification to indulge in their sweet addiction, the good news is that chocolate provides minerals such as potassium and calcium. In confirmation of Cortés observation, chocolate does contains stimulants, primarily theobromine, followed by caffeine and serotonin. Research indicates that cacao consumption produces a marijuana-like effect, with a harmless euphoria. Chocoholics everywhere will attest to at least a mildly ecstatic psychological state from chocolate.

Chocolate Recipes  

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Diana Serbe is a writer, and the editor of In Mamas Kitchen. Click to meet her on the about us page.

 

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