"I love Southern food," says the elegant B. Smith in the opening pages of B. Smith Cooks Southern-Style. "I love the way it blankets me in comfort...I believe we can have our Southern food and eat it too, with all the flavor we want and without the fat we don't need." Traveling below the Mason-Dixon line, all the way down to the bayous of Louisiana, Smith builds on the tradition of southern cooking, taking some all-time favorites to put her own, less-caloric spin on them, always with respect for the legacy of Southern cooking, and always with the meticulous attention to detail that has made her a beacon of good taste in all her endeavors.
Smith is not writing a no-calorie book. She recognizes the lure Southern cooking has for all of us, herself included, and states that she loves the flavor that fats give to food. "What I've done is lighten up the traditional Southern dishes we love by revisiting their original recipes, unlocking old secrets to perfect taste, and creating new ones." Many of the recipes are ones that have been tested not only by by time, but also by the happy diners who have made her restaurants overwhelming successes.
Though as well known for her elegant approach to interiors, including table settings that inspire day-to-day dining and celebrations alike, Smith is here concerned with food alone. Culling recipes from her wide knowledge of southern cooking, the reader will find Cajun and Creole next to low-country recipes, all done with authority, and all written with thoroughness, and (happily) without excess verbiage. Each recipe has an introduction, often filled with tips, and always with Smith's personal charm. The book is divided into twelve chapters from Brunch, Appetizers, Breads and Dressing through to Desserts and Beverage. There is a separate chapter for Sauces and Condiments that includes many southern favorites.
When Smith speaks of innovation, she means business and the first recipe to kick off the book is for Country-Style Alligator Sausage Patties and Gravy. (For those not yet attuned to alligator, Smith tells us it's low in cholesterol and fat.) She rapidly moves into the classics, however, with recipes such as Turkey Sausage Gravy and Biscuits, Cheese Grits, Pain Perdu with Home-Style Cane Syrup - a delicious twist on the classic Louisiana recipe.
Smith loves Creole and Cajun cooking and loads the book with such recipes as Cajun Veal Stew, Crab and Shrimp Étouffée, Duck Jambalaya, Red Bean Soup, Cajun Fried Pork Chops. There are also those dishes that have satisfied generations and accompanied celebrations such as Kentucky Burgoo, Frogmore Stew (no frogs in it!), Chicken Fried Steak, Barbecues Pork Tenderloin, Fancy Dressed Chitterlings, Baby Back Ribs with Southern Dry Rub.
Smith knows that classic southern sides will outlast any food trend for their basic goodness and comfort. You will find Red Beans and Rice, Southern-Style Collard Greens, Savory Corn Pudding, Hoppin' John, even a Macaroni and a Plethora of Cheeses that is no ordinary mac 'n cheese, but one made with cavatelli pasta.
Smith has recipes for holidays and for every day, all done with verve and flair. You can make a classic Roast Turkey with Cornbread Oyster Stuffing, or try Roasted Capon with Sausage-Apple Pear Dressing and Lillet Sauce. In the seafood category, she offers recipes such as Southern Spiced Catfish Roulade with Black-Eyed Pea Gravy and even shares her famous "Swamp Thang with Deep-Fried Julienne Vegetables," a dish created at Smith's Union Station restaurant in Washington, D.C. and added by popular demand at her New York City Restaurant.
Desserts are the luscious end to a true southern meal. "Southern desserts may come out of the kitchen, but they taste like they were made in heaven," states Smith. Once again Smith has put her elegant personal touch on the classic. Try her classic Red velvet Cake, but then try her new version, a Red Velvet Cake Roll with Peanut Butter Frosting drizzled with melted chocolate. Taking something as basic as grits and finding a place for it in another part of the meal, she creates Candy Apple Grits Creme Brulee. For a special occasion, try her crowd-pleasing Walnut Molasses Tart, so rich that slivers are fine and the tart feeds many mouths.
Smith includes a section on libations which she divides into three sections: Hot Tin Roof Cocktails; Sweet Libations and Make Mine a Martini.
There are photographs in the center as well as black and white shots of Smith happily cooking throughout. This book is elegant in its simplicity, and with the personality of the author infusing every page.
About the author: Barbara Smith, lifestyle expert. Restaurateur, TV host, columnist, former model, magazine publisher (B. Smith Style).
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