Author and James Beard Award-winning chef, Janos Wilder is devoted to both authenticity and to a creativity which brings innovation without abandoning the basic principles of the original. He also is enamored of the Mexican food that has come up from the people, and that means rellenos. "My approach to the relleno is the same as my approach to cooking in general," states Wilder, " I learn how and why dishes were developed in the past, use those traditions as points of exploration and departure, and combine ingredients and techniques that work well together and, most important, taste great." True to his statement, Wilder works with the basic flavor patterns used in Mexican cooking.
In The Great chiles Rellenos Book, Wilder gives more than 70 recipes for chiles rellenos. The dishes range from basic rellenos, rellenos casseroles, classics from the very sophisticated Oaxacan cuisine and his own creations which sparkle with invention. To complete a meal of rellenos, he includes recipes for batters and crusts, salsas and sauces, and salads and relishes. Knowing the origins of rellenos he also advises making this a communal adventure, just as it would have been to a Mexican family. Making rellenos is fun Wilder tells us, and part of the fun is sharing.
Wilder begins with an explanation of the basic flavors, a very brief history of ciles, an explanation of chiles, as well as how to prepare them. The mouth-watering recipes roam across a broad landscape. There are such classics as Basic Monterey Jack Cheese Chiles Rellenos; Chiles Rellenos de Carne; Oaxacan Lamb Barbacoa Rellenos and Chiles en Nagado. There are less classical recipes such as Lobster and Brie Rellenos with Nantua Sauce (this brings in Wilder's French discipline); Holiday Apple and Walnut Rellenos; Mango, Apple, and Roquefort Rellenos. Moving into a section for Chiles Rellenos Casseroles, Poppers and Salads, Wilder offers such recipes as Crab Casserole Chiles Rellenos; Foie Gras Poppers; Seared Sea Scallop, Morel Mushrooms, and Fava Bean Salad Rellenos; Queso de Oaxaca, Tomato, and Red Onion Bread Salad Rellenos.
Careful to complete the meal, Wilder offers recipes for side dishes and side salads such as a classic Guacamole; Mushroom Escabeche; Figs Stuffed with Roasted Walnuts, Queso Casero, and Agave Nectar; Chayote Salad; Orange-Jicama Salad; Green-Apple Pecan Salad. He covers dressings, salsas, relishes and sauces with recipes such as Champagne Sauce; Andalusian Gazpacho Sauce; Cilantro Aioli; Spicy Pico de Gallo; Mango Coulis.
This is a festive book, bringing the Mexican disciplines and tastes into the realm of the creative. There are photos throughout by Laurie Smith.
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