Jason Epstein describes himself as "a valet and evangelist for writers." This modest statement hides the truth that Epstein was an editor of such exceptional ability and foresight that names such as Norman Nailer and the incomparable Vladimir Nabokov graced his literary world, along with cooks and chefs of the stature of Alice Waters, Wolfgang Puck, Maida Heatter, and Frankie Pellegrino of Rao's restaurant fame. Though many believe that those who can't write become turn editors, Mr. Epstein's prose gives the lie to that belief. His well-turned sentences are such a pleasure to read that language alone makes Eating a page-turner.
Epstein begins his narration with food-related childhood memories, ones that are so universal that they evoke our own subterranean memories of childhood, of those secure early years when our deepest impressions of life were formed, most of them centered in the kitchen. Moving on to his young adult years, we respond again to his personal story with our own memories of early adulthood when every new experience was both a discovery and the start of a journey. Epstein finally covers his days as a known editor. Though he is modest about his achievements, those accounts are filled with insider views of the famous, with many travels to exotic countries, to exotic foods, or the dining offered to the privileged.
Though written chronologically, Epstein has not traced a step-by-step narrative, but divided this slender volume into short chapters highlighting the prominent food memories of his life. Recipes are interspersed into each chapter in a seamless, conversational style that does not stop the narrative, but allows it flow from story to food, just as breakfast, lunch and dinner weave into the pattern our activities - work, love, play, create.
This is a slender book, one that is perfect for either a cold winter's day with a cup of tea and a blazing fire, or the opposite, a lazy summer's day with a glass of lemonade. Its size makes a perfect hostess gift.
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