"The discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than the discovery of a star."
"Tell me what you eat, and I shall tell you what you are."
There are many reasons to enjoy this classic book, continuously in print since its publication in 1825, for this book is a treasure chest of many delights. One can read for the meditations on food, the senses and all things surrounding the culinary; one can read for the historical notes on food; one can read just to laugh for there is great amusement offered by the attitudes of the times which are reflected in the author's opinions. One can also read for the pleasure of the translator's notes, as the translator is none other than MFK Fisher, one of our finest prose stylists and a formidable culinary writer in her own right. Fisher is often amused by Brillat-Savarin and adds to the amusement with her own comments.
Brillat-Savarin was a lawyer and magistrate and carried this manuscript with him at all times, leading to the speculation that he even worked on this while on the bench. His obsession leaves no aspect of the gastronomic uncovered from a definition of taste, to an analysis of the sensation of tasting, the power of taste, and the use of the senses. There are more mundane matters from a theory of frying to dissertations on water, and the prompt effect of ordinary drinks and strong drinks. There are meditations on the varying types of gourmands from bankers, doctors and writers to the devout, the chevaliers and Abbes.
Let us laugh: Here is Brillat-Savarin speaking of obesity: "I call this type of fatness GASTROPHORIA, and its victims GASTROPHORES. I myself am in their company; but although I carry around with me a fairly prominent stomach, I still have well-formed legs, and calves as sinewy as the muscles of an Arabian steed."
Let us laugh again: Brillat-Savarin speaks of the turkey, offering proof that it originated in American by virtue of its shape which he declares "is obviously a foreign one." He does go deeper than judgment of shape, however, by giving the route by which the turkey was introduced to France. He goes on to speak of turkey lovers stating that the turkey "enjoys the unique advantage of attracting to it every class of society." The plowman will roast a turkey, says Brillat-Savarin; the practical mechanic will stuff it with sausages or Lyon chestnuts; the most renowned will truffle the turkey. As for the truffle itself, the author has opinions regarding its "amorous effects," and relates a tale of adultery inspired by the truffle.
You can read straight through this treasure if so inclined, or you can let it fall open and find pleasure and amusement on the page that opens before you. The Everyman's Library, a project of Alfred A. Knopf publishers now brings this witty and wonderful book to all home libraries. As MFK Fisher states: ""I have yet to be bored or offended, which is more than most women can say of any relationship, either ghostly or corporeal."
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