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Pomp and Sustenance

Twenty-five Centuries of Sicilian Food

by Mary Taylor Simeti, published by Alfred A. Knopf

 

 

by Diana Serbe

If there is one book that belongs on the shelf of Sicilian food lovers, it is Pomp and Sustenance. This book is a classic, the definitive work on Sicilian cooking. And it is crammed with authentic, hard to find recipes gleaned from the author's friends, family and acquaintances on the island of Sicily itself.

Author Mary Taylor Simeti, an American married to a Sicilian, set herself to the discovery of Sicilian food. She haunted former convents and palaces where Palermo's libraries have been maintained. She tested each ancient recipe herself and updated the methods. Her directions are written in a clear, easy to follow fashion.Though the subtitle indicates the historical sweep of the book, Simeti has organized the material to reflect both the external influences of a series of conquerors, and the domestic changes brought about by peasant, clergy and aristocrat alike. Her chapter titles hint at the enticing discoveries waiting for the reader:

  • One: Of Ancient Abundance, Epic AppetitesTwo: The Gardens of ParadiseThree: The Staff of l Life . . .Four: . . . And the Stuff of DreamsFive: Princes, Priests, and Not So Humble FriarsSix: Virgins' Breast, Chancellor's Buttocks, and Other Convent DelicaciesSeven: Street Fare
  • Eight: I Scream, You Scream, We All Scream for Ice Cream

The recipes reflect the chapter titles. There are recipes using the vegetable abundance of the Sicilian landscape, for ice cream or granita, and, yes there are recipes for Virgins Breasts and Chancellor's Buttocks.The book contains more than a hundred illustrations from Sicilian archives and museums and the text quotes freely from Homer, Plato, Apicius, Lampedusa, Pirandello, and Carlo Levi.

Simeti's prose is so descriptive that to read Pomp and Sustenance is to be in Sicily. And if you are in Sicily, you want to eat. Dive into the luscious recipes enclosed in these pages.

   
   
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